There are always fad ingredients that come and go in antiaging skincare, but some ingredients are both essential and timeless, because they specifically target and improve the needs of aging skin. These should be in all your skincare products, whatever your age.
Before we look at those ingredients, let's look at the biggest factors affecting aging skin and what they mean for skin's appearance and health:
Photo damage/damage from the sun and UV light.
Sun damage of course is highly implicated in the development of skin cancers and malignancies so protective and preventive action is top of the list for skin health. UV damage is a key driver in the development of lines, wrinkles, sunspots and pigmentation. All of these increase with age and with frequent long term exposure to UV rays.
Increased free radicals.
Free radicals are unstable molecules that cause cell damage. Some free radical activity is normal, but too much is damaging to all tissues, including skin. Sun damage is one cause of free radical production. Pollution, poor diet, smoking, alcohol and other external toxins contribute too. From an aesthetic perspective, free radical damage is associated with all the things we associate with aging skin - lines, wrinkles, discolouration and lacklustre.
Loss of collagen.
This happens naturally with age, causing reduced skin strength, less elasticity, reduced ability for skin to repair and renew. The visible impact of losing collagen is 'saggy' or drooping skin, lines, wrinkles and a less firm appearance of the skin's structure.
Lost hydration.
Keeping yourself well hydrated makes a big difference to how your skin looks, but unfortunately, with age, this becomes harder. As we get older, we tend toward drier skin and have trouble retaining hydration at cell level. This is why older skin can more easily become dry, cracked, lined and creased.
Super ingredients that help!
1. VITAMIN C
Vitamin C supports aging skin in 3 powerful ways. First, Vitamin C is is required to make collagen. Collagen is essential for skin structure, repair and renewal, so it's important at every age, but vital as we get older and lose natural collagen. Second, Vitamin C is antioxidant. It helps reduce free radicals and prevents them from multiplying, thus reducing and preventing damage they may cause to your skin. Finally, collagen and antioxidants together help reduce and repair UV damage (Pullar et. al., 2017, Linus Pauling Institute, 2023), so Vitamin C is an all round skin-win!
2. VITAMIN E
Like Vitamin C, Vitamin E is an antioxidant that supports skin health and prevents skin damage by fighting free radicals. It has photo-protective qualities and absorbs UV energy, so can help reduce free radicals caused by sun damage. Where damage has occurred, Vitamin E's anti inflammatory effect helps. These effects of Vitamin E are increased when Vitamin C is present, so they're a great team (Linus Pauling Institute, 2023). Vitamin E is water binding too, helping to attract and maintain skin moisture. Bonus!
3. POLYPHENOLS
I'm sure you've heard about Vitamins C & E before, but polyphenols might be new to you. So what are they? Polyphenols are compounds made by plants with many properties that directly support skin health. They are UV protective, assist in DNA repair, are potent antioxidants and provide anti-inflammatory support (Afaq & Katiya, 2011, Nichols & Katiya, 2009). Famous polyphenols are resveratrol in red wine, anthocyanins in blueberries and catechins in green tea. There are 1000s of polyphenols in plants loaded with potential to support skin health, prevent skin damage and improve skin quality.
4. PANTOTHENIC ACID (VITAMIN B5)
A less touted vitamin when it comes to skincare but powerful nonetheless! Vitamin B5 is often compared to hyaluronic acid for its hydration capacity but it might be even better! It attracts, binds and holds water, so is incredible for maintaining hydration and moisture. Studies have shown B5 is also effective for reducing pigmentation and improving skin tone and evenness, as well as potential reducing and improving acne (Braun & Cohen, 2015).
Those are our recommendations for ingredients you definitely want in your skincare. Some are old, some are new, all are excellent, no matter your age.
Want to try some? Did you know...
Propolis is a natural substance high in pantothenic acid and loaded with a broad variety of plant polyphenols. It also contains small but relevant concentrations of both Vitamins C & E. It's a powerhouse for healthy skin and aging skin. That's why it's the active ingredient in our skin, hair and body range.
REFERENCES:
Afaq, F., & K. Katiyar, S. (2011). Polyphenols: Skin photoprotection and inhibition of photocarcinogenesis. Mini-Reviews in Medicinal Chemistry, 11(14), 1200–1215. https://doi.org/10.2174/13895575111091200
Braun, L., & Cohen, M. (2015). Herbs and natural supplements: An evidence-based guide. Churchill Livingstone.
Nichols, J. A., & Katiyar, S. K. (2009). Skin photoprotection by natural polyphenols: Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and DNA repair mechanisms. Archives of Dermatological Research, 302(2), 71–83. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00403-009-1001-3
Pullar, J., Carr, A., & Vissers, M. (2017). The roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu9080866
Vitamin E and skin health. Linus Pauling Institute. (2023, January 3). Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/health-disease/skin-health/vitamin-E
Vitamin C and skin health. Linus Pauling Institute. (2023, January 3). Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/health-disease/skin-health/vitamin-C